Some people are just born with naturally long lashes, and the rest of us are left furiously Googling how to grow eyelashes. Even if you’re armed with the best eyelash curler and the best mascara on the market and your lashes still aren’t looking as lush as you’d like, you’re not out of luck: there are some products you can use to boost your eyelashes’ length, volume, and curl.

The lifespan of an eyelash is anywhere from four to eleven months, but your eyelashes are only actually growing for about four to ten weeks of that timeframe. If you are weaning yourself off eyelash extensions, or if your eyelashes have fallen out and you are trying to grow them back, this growth cycle can feel like a lifetime. Here’s the lowdown on growth serums, hacks, and tips and what works and doesn’t.

Do eyelash growth serums really work?

Latisse is currently the only lash growth serum approved by the FDA. Latisse can lengthen the amount of time your eyelashes spend in the anagen (growth) phase, so they keep growing instead of falling out, leading to longer lashes. When you stop using it regularly, your eyelashes stop growing.

You’ll need a doctor’s prescription to get your hands on Latisse, and for good reason: Birnur Aral, Ph.D., director of the Beauty Lab at the Good Housekeeping Institute explains that since Latisse affects hair growth, it’s categorically a drug.

Consulting with your doctor is the best way to avoid some of the product’s known effects and drug interactions, including the disclosed side effect of green or blue eyes turning brown if the serum gets in your irises. If that freaks you out, there are more options (including at-home remedies) that can boost your lashes length, volume, and curl.

Are lash growth serums safe?

You may know some people who swear up and down that an over-the-counter lash growth serum is responsible for their new long and luscious lashes, and this is where we get into murky territory. Most lash serums contain an active ingredient that is similar to, or derived from, bimatoprost (the ingredient in Latisse that stimulates hair growth). But unlike bimatoprost, these over-the-counter ingredients are not regulated by the FDA. Therefore, they cannot receive the agency’s stamp of approval for safety, which puts users at risk.

Consider Rodan + Field’s Lash Boost Serum. Last year, the company was hit with a federal class action lawsuit after customers claimed that the company failed to disclose the side effects of the ingredient isopropyl cloprostenate, a derivative of bimatoprost. Some customers claimed the product caused “change(s) in iris color, eyelid drooping, itchy eyes, eye/lid discoloration, thinning and loss of eyelashes/loss of eyelash hair, eye sensitivity, eye infections, and vision impairment.”

Yikes. Just because your friends are promoting OTC lash growth serums on Facebook doesn’t mean they’re safe or effective. So if you’re looking for a lower maintenance way to get healthy lashes, try eyelash conditioning serums.

What’s the deal with lash conditioners?

Think of eyelash conditioning serums like hair conditioners: They don’t directly cause growth, but they do moisturize and strengthen hair to prevent existing strands from falling out. If a growth serum like Latisse works by giving you new growth, conditioning serums work by protecting new growth.

Keep an eye out for an ingredient list that includes hard workers like peptides, argan oil, sodium hyaluronate, or hyaluronic acid. According to Dr. Imahiyerobo-Ip, “these ingredients act as humectants which bind water. They provide deep hydration to eyelashes and make them more flexible. By drawing water to the hair they also make lashes appear fuller and thicker.”

How can I grow my lashes naturally?

There are plenty of natural remedies for slow eyelash growth floating around the internet, and these include household ingredients like coconut oil, castor oil, Vaseline, and vitamin E oil. But do they actually deliver on the long and thick lashes they promise? The answer is… sort of.

“These ingredients primarily function to coat the eyelashes, which gives the illusion of thicker eyelashes,” said Board Certified Dermatologist Dr. Joyce Imahiyerobo-Ip. “By hydrating eyelashes, [these products] may also result in less eyelash breakage. However, these ingredients in and of themselves do not cause eyelash growth.”

TLDR: These ingredients keep your lashes healthy and looking nice and full, but won’t actually make them any longer.

What not to do when growing lashes

“Eyelashes can be damaged by some of the things we do to enhance them,” explains Dr. Imahiyerobo-Ip. “Over application of mascara may damage delicate eyelashes, especially if mascara is frequently left on overnight.”

So even on those nights when you’re absolutely exhausted, it’s important use a good makeup remover to completely wash off the day’s eye makeup – otherwise, you risk tugging them out overnight. Other lash-killing culprits include improperly applied eyelash extensions, and even your trusty eyelash curler if you’re using it improperly. You can certainly still use your eyelash curler, as long as you are mindful of avoiding overuse and cleaning it regularly to avoid nasty bacteria buildup.

You can also go ahead and skip those biotin supplements: while it’s not dangerous or harmful, there’s no clear evidence to show that biotin actually has a positive impact on hair growth. You’re better off focusing on a balanced, healthy diet to foster healthy hair, skin, and nails.

Bottom line: The only FDA-approved way to grow your lashes is with prescription product Latisse. Lash growth serums can be risky, and eyelash conditioners hydrate and strengthen lashes to help them look lush and full without really affecting growth.

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